Fort Kochi: Gourmet Trail

Colonial Kochi - that is Fort Kochi, Mattencherry and Kunnupuram is a gourmet's delight with boutique hotels and cafes serving a wide range of local cuisine along with the Mediterranean, Jewish, continental, North India and South Asian. Being a coastal area, a huge variety of seafood, fresh water fish find its way into the palette. The culinary journey comprises of shrimps, mussels, prawns, lobsters and squids cooked the way one wants to. The favourite way of cooking these sea foods is grilled or curried.  The local Kerala cuisine also has a wide range of family secret recipes and Syrian christian cuisine. Kochi is also known for its fiery Karimeen fish curry which is best taken with the local heady brew toddy.The culinary delights of Fort Kochi demands a well deserved walk through and here is one.

Speciality Restaurants

History Restaurant - Brunton Boatyard

Vypen Jetty Beachfront - Fort Kochi
Eating at Brunton Boatyard’s History Restaurant is literally a journey through history. It is a mecca of fusion dishes. Each dish reflects a different community. And 30 different communities living in Kochi all tell their own special story. Beef Cutlets speak of an Anglo Indian heritage. Fish lovers savoring the flavor of Samak Bil Harder Asful are transported to Arabia. There's Fish Moilee with its Syrian Christian roots. The Vindaloo transports you to the time of Vasco da Gama. Finish it with a Dutch Pudding with a lingering trace of cinnamon. Steak Fernandez, the pepper crusted succulent steak is a house speciality. At the History Restaurant, these cuisines have been given a new lease of life, recreated faithfully each evening by chefs who did their research in the best place possible - with the old families of Cochin. Chef Ajeeth Janardhan is fussy abut getting fresh ingredients. He says "if we can't get fresh ingredients, we won't serve that dish". The Brunton gets a daily delivery of fresh seafood, spices and condiments.

                                            History Restaurant - Brunton Boatyard

Signature Dish - First Class Railway Mutton Curry

One of the signature dishes, the First Class Railway Mutton Curry is made from a secret recipe. The mutton is cooked in a brass pot for six whole hours. This allows the spices to infuse and makes the mutton both mild and tender.

The story goes that an English army officer, while travelling in a train, found himself ravishingly hungry. He followed his nose to the pantry car where a spicy mutton curry was simmering. He was offered a taste, whence he burnt his tongue because of the spices. The helpful cook reduced the pungency with some coconut milk and served it up. From that day on this became a staple on all First Class Compartments of the train.

1788 - Old Harbour Hotel

Tower Road - Fort Kochi

With a lovely alfresco poolside arrangement, the restaurant offers contemporary European and fusion Indo-French cuisine. For a fine-dining experience, little beats 1788.

Food has always been an important criterion at 1788. The freshness of the ingredients and sea foods is a predominant feature. Home made breads and plenty of freshly squeezed juices go very well with the food. They use organically grown vegetables awhile the meats are of the highest quality available.  Chef has painstakingly conjured up an array of dishes to suit various taste palates.Crispy calamari with Parmesan cream, Pumpkin Olan, Crab Ularthiyathu and Chocolate pudding are testimony of the painstakingly crafted dish prepared by the Chefs

Malabar Junction - Malabar House
Parade Ground - Fort Kochi

Malabar junction, the gourmet restaurant is the crossroads of tradition & innovation of South India & the west. Specialising in refined & market fresh food, this is reputed to be one of the finest seafood restaurants in the South. The food here is traditional fare with a contemporary Mediterranean twist.  Kuttanad roast duck, or shredded duck bathed in gently spiced coconut cream with fennel and pineapple for an excellent contrast in flavour, accompanied by fragile, crispy appams is the sought after dish. The peppery Kerala-style lamb cooked with curry leaves, coconut and shallots, served with upma is another signature combination. 
Use of fresh ingredients, local spices and freshest fish, meat are hall mark of all standard restaurants in Fort Kochi and Malabar House is no exception.

Menorah - Koder House
Tower Road, Fort Kochi

Menorah, the multi cuisine restaurant is glittering tribute to the hotel’s Jewish heritage. It has the rare distinction of being the only restaurant in India to serve Jewish food.

The carefully chosen menu however goes beyond Jewish delicacies. It is in fact, a melting pot just like Fort Cochin, offering Kerala, Jewish and Continental, Indian cuisine. Since the beach with its historic Chinese fishing nets is but a step away, seafood, naturally, is the restaurant’s main draw. Their Kerala and continental offerings both make generous use of the bounty of the sea.

Family recipes have been sourced from the length and breadth of the state to cook up regional favourites like Malabar Fish Curry from the North, Meen Pollichathu from the central areas and Alleppey Prawn curry from the heart of backwater country. Menorah prepares these dishes to authentic recipes, using the fresh catch of the day.
In recognition of Fort Cochin’s international appeal and multicultural heritage, the restaurant also serve some of the finest continental delicacies in the area. Pastas with authentic ingredients and light sauces are quite popular. If you’d like to encapsulate the Koder House experience in one dish, then do order their signature offering - the Mix Grill Seafood Platter. Finish your meal with the Jewish pudding or the local favourite - Kerala payasam.

Dal Roti
Lilly Street - Parade Ground - Fort Kochi
Dal Roti is a no frills restaurant on the quieter and quaint Lilly Street near Parade Ground. Operating out of a mansion with a front veranda shrouded behind the trees and plants. The inner hall is fairly big with high ceilings. The simple decor compliments the relaxed eating experience that this restaurant offers.
What distinguishes Dal Roti is the kind of North India food that you get here, the service with smile of Ramesh - the owner, the kind of interest that he shows in what you order and above all the portion in each dish that you get. Kathi roll would be so heavy with chicken that you would be searching for onion and capsicum. The Biryani will be loaded with chicken chunks, more chicken than rice. It is open for lunch and dinner, closed on Tuesdays. Last dinner order is taken @ 10:15 pm. The cost is also reasonable, a meal for 2 with 2 non veg dishes including roti / naan, biryani / rice will not even cross Rs.300/- (approx 7 dollars).

The food is a combination of signature dishes from North Indian states of Uttar Pradesh, Bihar and Madhya Pradesh. The menu includes thalis as well as a la carte dishes. The Lachidhar parathas eaten with chicken or any other curry is an amazing combination.

Mango Tree Restaurant - Old Courtyard Hotel
Princess Street - Fort Kochi
Mango Tree is a multi cuisine restaurant with an excellent roof top locality. A 65 years old mango tree spreads over the roof top. They serve tasty Tibetan momos, Italian pizzas, continental, Thai, Chinese and Indian tandoori dishes. Their signature dish Fish in banana leaf is a real treat. The dinner time is marked by local musicians playing some fine music, goes down well with the ambiance.     Signature Dish: Grilled pom fret wrapped in banana leaves with kerala appam.

Arca Nova Restaurant - The Fort House Hotel
Beachfront - Fort Kochi
Arca Nova Restaurant at the The Fort House hotel on the waterfront is a cool place to enjoy traditional as well as European dishes in a waterfront ambiance with cool sea breeze on your face. The finely crafted menu offers the traditional Kochi recipes along with the European favourites. Seafood cooked in the Kerala Syrian Christian style is their speciality. Their recipes are sourced from the local families and tweaked to provide a wholesome treat to any foodie.
Their banana leaf seer fish eaten with soft appam is a treat in itself. You could also try their Mozambique prawns with kerala rice and vegetable thoran (curry).

Oceanos Seafood - Elphinstone Residency

Parade Ground - Fort Kochi

Head to Oceanos for lip-smacking Mediterranean cuisine. The multi-cuisine seafood restaurant at Elphinstone Residency, a leafy hotel in the quieter part of Fort Kochi behind the Bishop's House serves freshest sea food cooked to perfection the way you wish it to be in a languid pace that allows you to savour the exotic taste of the seafood and the various spices that blends with the food so easily yet retains its identity and tickles every taste buds.

Kayikka's Biryani - Rahmatullah Hotel

Aanavaadal - Mattencherry

Rahmatullah Hotel started in 1948 by the Kayikka, a famous Biryani cook serves lip smacking Biryani from the humble restaurant located in the muslim quarters of Mattencherry. Their mutton biryani - long rice cooked in ghee and masalas with succulent mutton pieces is a wholesome meal in itself. Rice, spices and mutton pieces are placed in layers in large cooking vessel covered and sealed with dough, let to cook on wood fire for several hours. The steam mingles with the rice and mutton and spreads the aroma which is retained due to sealed container. Burning charcoal is placed on the sealed cover to lend smoky aroma to the dish.  People line up to partake this legendary food here from all parts of Kochi.

Shala

Peter Celli Street - Fort 

A small eatery standing next door to Cafe Teapot on Peter Celli Street serves local cuisine cooked by the local housewives. The food obviously is home cooked, no frills and authentic Kerala cuisine. Go for lunch and dinner for a fill of local dishes and very light on pocket. Yummy!

Upstairs
K B Jacob Road. Santa Cruz Basilica - Fort Kochi

For true blue Italian cuisine one has to head to Upstairs run by Italian couple Fabio and Ayesha. Operating out of the first floor of an old mansion atop the floor with line of shops. The wooden stairs leads to tastefully designed dining area with 40 covers. You may choose to sit in the dining hall or the veranda seating which overlooks the Santa Cruz Basilica.
A variety of vegetarian and non vegetarian trattoria style Italian dishes - lasagna, pasta, pizza, crepes, sea foods, salads are the usual fare here. The charming owners are always around to help you with your food selection. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner and operates from 8:30 in the morning and last order is taken around 10 in the night. They are closed on Tuesdays. We quite enjoyed the crepes and pastas. And yes their blackboard menu with day's specials written in colourful chalks was quite an appetizer!


Cafes

Cafe Teapot
Peter Celli Street - Fort Kochi

                                                   Cafe Teapot - The Tea Room

While in Fort Kochi, if you are looking for a perfect cuppa of the rich brew (tea) head to the mustered colour painted twin level tea house on Peter Celli Street. This is 'the' place at Fort Kochi for excellent teas in about 50 odd varieties.

We visited this place in June 11 and we fell in love so much that over a period of 3 days we experienced the great hospitality of Tea Pot on 6 occasions. Experience of every visit was better than the previous one.

As you enter the tea house, what amazes one is its laid back atmosphere, no waiter hanging behind your neck for the order. But the order arrives promptly. The polite waiters talk to you as if they are in whispers. They silently cater what you have ordered. The tea is served in different kind of tea pot every time, always perfectly brewed. The chocolate cake and sandwiches are perfect foil for the tea. You can choose from Darjeeling, Assam and Nilgiris, exotic new flavours, hot or cold. They serve English breakfast, high tea, snacks and light meals.


They also serve several varieties of fish, chicken and vegetarian dishes which goes perfectly well with rice. I particularly liked their Mustard Fish and Fish Korma. Perfectly spiced fish with rich yellow and green curry are excellent.

And you can experience all this surrounded by about 200 odd tea pots of various size, make,colour and design. They are on the racks, show cases, on the table and hung from the ceiling. These lovely tea pots are everywhere. You can spend few hours admiring these tea pots. Oh yes, they have a centre table, the base of which is an old tea plant and other table bases here are nothing but old tea chests. There are antiques and memorabilia related to tea all around you. The walls have simple pen and ink drawings of tea cups, there is an old Indian poster on tea which were in vogue when tea was first introduced in India as a daily brew in the 40's and 50's.  

Oy's Cafe
Burgher Street - Fort Kochi

Oy's Cafe is part of the Oy's Homestay on the laid back and relaxed Burgher Street off the Tower Road in Fort Kochi. It is a cool and chilled out place with low seating with cushions thrown in. Ideal m a relaxed dining experience. Reasonable, rather cheaply priced food and drinks are served here by the friendly staff.  For a refreshing drink opt for mint lime juice, ginger and lime juice or the cold coffee. They also serve well prepared golden fry prawns.

Cafe Crafters
Jew Road - Above Crafters - Jew Town

This is a nice airy place to take a much needed break after a hectic walking and shopping spree in the antique hub Jew Town. The cafe is operated by the antique dealers Crafters and it is accessed through the stairs that leads up from one of their several outlets. Located on the first floor overlooks the rectangular tri-junction on Jew Street that leads to Pardesi synagogue. The place is nicely decorated with the antiques from the store below, one could even term it as an extension of the store.
Food options are limited more of snacks rather than the whole meal, good for quick bites - sandwiches, burgers, salads and refreshing drink. Though they also serve the kerala fish curry meal, stew and appam.
The prices are on the higher side and portions small. The small balcony overlooking the street is great for watching the antiquated bazaar downstairs. Airy dining room decorated with  carved wood screens is quite pleasing.

David Hall
Parade Ground - Fort Kochi

David Hall is an art gallery opposite the Parade Ground housed in a Dutch built 17th century mansion. The place is run by the CGH Earth, the legendary hotel chain of Kerala. The back veranda opening into the green lawns has been converted into a small cafe serving quick bites and Kerala stew with appam. Good for a quick bite in a relaxed and laid back atmosphere after a walk through Fort Kochi. Opens at 11 in the morning and shuts down early by 7 pm.

Kashi Art Cafe

Located on the quite and quaint Burgher Street is Kashi Art Cafe, housed in an old Kerala mansion and part of the Kashi Art Gallery. It is place for meeting friends, sharing relaxed and joyous moments over a delicious spread of quick bites as well as meals and refreshing drinks.The airy open courtyard garden cafe is also a great place for meeting people from around the world.
Food is available from 8:30 in the morning to 7:30 in the night and one can have breakfast at any time of the day. Truly a freedom place!
Assorted sandwiches, freshly baked cakes, salads, soups and traditional Kerala cuisine is on offer along with refreshing coffee and juices. The ingredients used in food are fresh and organically grown. Try their home made chocolate cake.
Kashi remains open round the week. However, they remain closed from 1st to 30 June every year.

You Buy , I Cook
Tower Road - Opposite Delta Study - Fort Kochi

Fort Kochi’s ‘You buy, I cook’ beach side food stalls, not far from the Chinese fishing nets, offer good fresh seafood and beautiful views. These roadside food stalls lined opposite the Delta Study is the place if you are looking for freshly caught fish cooked to your taste and liking in a jiffy.

We purchased freshest prawns and seer fish from one of the fish stalls near the Chinese Fishing nets and handed over the catch to Abdullah who grilled the seer fish and barbecued prawns as per our instructions.

The stalls are open from lunch time to late in the night. The cooking charge would vary according to the amount of fish and the method of cooking. Ranges from Rs.50 onwards.

Toddy Shops

Looking for fiery kerala fish curry served in not so fussy ambiance and eat the way locals do then head for one of the Toddy shops (country liquor shops) that dot the town. Sit on wooden bench and order for generous karimeen served with kerala rice or puttu which is teamed in bamboo containers. Down this with the local brew toddy (juice of date, palm tree extracted overnight and collected early in the morning. Quit a heady brew it is! 
Choose from prawns, pomfret or the cuttle fish if you fancy.

                                                   A typical Toddy Shop and signage
       

Aroma Trail in Downtown Srinagar

My search for the purest aromatic extract of the exotic flowers more so of the Roses that grow in abundance in Srinagar led me to the byleanes of the old downtown Srinagar. Meandering narrow streets that one passes as I enter the Bohrikadal, the aroma of fresh ginger, famed Kashmiri red chili, cockscomb flower, saunf (fennel) hits my blocked nostril. This announces that I am transversing through the Bohrikadal bazar overshadowed by three-four storied exposed old brick and wood houses. Their simple construction immediately attracts attention so does the numerous wooden balconies with fine wooden carvings and intricate woodwork designs in the traditional Khatambund style.

            The bye lane of Fatehkadal

The market place is abuzz with the chaos of any typical Indian market, people, rickshaws, bikes and cars jostle for space, shops selling spices, grocery, utensils, fabrics and dresses spilling over onto the limited road space. Chaotic yet colourful. Time seem to have stood still for the mansions and to some extent the local inhabitants too! Though the signage, mobile phones do tell us that the Srinagar residents have adopted modern inventions with fury, yet I somehow got a feeling that this place lives in time-wrap. The laid back banters of shopkeepers, elders enjoying a round of hookah by the roadside surrounded by chaos and continuing and flourishing traditions of embroidery, copper ware, bakery and rose water distillation reminds me that the place is still moored to its past.

                                           Aziz Kozgar's Workshop at Fatehkadal

Distillation of flower for extracting essence and rose water is an age old occupation that thrived in the ancient Kashmir. There is mention of this in ancient Kashmiri texts. Though Lavender, Rose, Clary sage, Peppermint are some of the aromatic plants that grow in abundance in Kashmir. It is Rose water that has place of pride not only in Kashmir but also in India. There is also an evidence from historical texts that in Kashmir rose extract was produced through the process of twice distilled rose water.

My quest leads me through the main Fathekadal bazaar and I cross the magnificent Shah Hamadan mausoleum - Khanqah-e-Maula and stand in front of a large old four storied mansion which appears to have seen a very glorious past. The ground floor is occupied by the Kozgar family and their shop-cum-workshop that has been in the trade of distilling rose water for more than four centuries. The large wooden window is lined with large antique coloured bottles that were used to store flower extracts for years. The signage in Urdu announces in bold letters "Rose Water" though the other signage also announces availability of extracts of musk, sandalwood, kewra, cinnamon, and other extract compounds touted as cure for several common ailments. 

             Abdul Aziz Kozgar: surrounded by hundreds of antique glass containers

Abdul Aziz Kozgar, the current family head double hats and is trying real hard to keep the traditional family occupation going till he lives. All of 48 years, salt-pepper bearded with infectious smile, he runs this family occupation passionately after returning from his livelihood earning government job. Though running the traditional distillery for him is not much of help as fare as the family financials are concerned, yet his passion for preserving the dying trade and the large collection of glass containers and bottles is extraordinary. 

He inherited this age old craft of distilling rosewater manually from his father. His forefathers originally from Turkey came to Kashmir some 400 years ago with the son of Mir Syed Ali Hamadani, the great Muslim saint who is credited with bringing Islam to India. They made the bustling Fatehkadal bazaar as their abode and workplace. 

Though rosewater is used extensively in Indian cuisine and also as important component in the cosmetics industry. Mechanical and mass production method has almost wiped out the manual distilling process and people prefer to buy the mass-produced branded rosewater rather than walking up to Aziz's shop for a bottle of manually distilled aromatic rosewater. Yet there are loyal patrons of his famous 'rose water' and 'Mixture for four extracts for stomach'. While I was with Aziz, came calling the mother and daughter duo for their requirement of rose water and the syrup for stomach. The young lady spoke highly of the the syrup which she said was very good for stomach and kidney and works as coolant. I could not resist the temptation and asked for fill of a large bottle. Aziz today makes only few syrups - Arq-e-Nilofar, Arq-e-Chandan and Arq-e-Kaah Zabaan and some more on demand apart from rose water.   

Aziz though fiercely promoting the tradition knows fully well that the trade would die after he is gone and a sense of defeat rings in his words when he talks passionately about manual distilling. He reminisces the days when his father Habibullah Kozgar and the entire family would be involved in making a wider variety of flower extracts and syrups.  His rose water is only available at his shop and sold in plastic bottles. It is not pre-packed, branded or labelled. He has also kept the prices very low. A bottle of 200 ml of rose water cost me only 20 rupees, while the same would  cost no less than 100 rupees for a branded rose water.

Aziz's shop is filled with antique jars of all sizes, most of which he inherited from his father and forefathers. In his childhood his family would make around 50 types of syrups besides rose water. These containers came in extensive use then. Now empty and unused, these containers have certainly had their fill of exotic syrups. One container which really stood out is a twin glass container with two separate glass goblets. The upper goblet, smaller than the base goblet is fitted with a small metal hand pump and an outlet. The goblets are held together with wire mesh. There are a couple of these containers in the shop and now disused. I could imagine exotic syrup being served from these containers to the discerning customers in the past. Now these could enrich collection of any antique collector! 
The high ceiling, dark shop, filled with glass bottles, jars and containers in ceiling high wooden shelves have seen a better past when commercialization had not invaded all spheres of our daily life, when the hakims and kozgars would extract syrups from plants and herbs through manual process. Among the containers are displayed faded old photographs of sufi saints and a couplet in Persian which reads " Yaani Aan Baani Musalmani, Mir Syed Ali Hamadani" which in translation reads- "though, Mir Syed Ali Hamadani is the founder of Islam here". This couplet best describes affinity of the kozgar family with the revered Muslim saint who is credited with introducing Islam in India and whose mausoleum is located across the road in the Khanqah-e-Maula shrine. The family also provides supply of rose and kewra water to the shrine and its devotees during the annual urs.   
  
Another faded handwritten paper pasted on the shelf displays the list of syrups and flower extracts that was once available from the kozgars. The rate list also has a hand drawing portraying the manual process of distillation. It is a simple method - washed and fresh flower petals are placed in large container filled with water and heated from below. The flower aroma mixes with the water and evaporates and passes through a funnel into another container filled with cold water. The warm vapour turns into water droplets and fills the cold container. This is a slow and time consuming process and takes hours to fill a large container of about 40 litres.  

Aziz is keen that someone should come forward to learn and continue the craft after him, but he is not sure if his young son would take this up or just let it die a natural death. His desperate bid to preserve the family and traditional legacy may not survive in this mechanized world.  

Colonial Mansion Hotels of Fort Kochi

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<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><> Fort Kochi has many Portuguese, Dutch and British colonial mansions that have been converted into boutique hotels and home-stay facilities. The vintage of these mansions range from 500 odd years to about 100 years. Once used as residences, clubs and offices by the colonial masters these are now welcoming discerning travelers for once in a lifetime stay options. Enterprising Malyalis spotted the opportunity of commercially exploiting the rich architectural legacy  that they either inherited or acquired transformed these mansions into finest living houses. Francis Wazciarg and Aman Nath, the enterprising Indian and French duo of Neemrana label have done fantastic work here by offering two of the oldest mansions (Le Colonial and Pierce Leslie Bungalow).  I can not think of any other place in the world where one gets to stay in colonial mansions of such vintage.  Most of these mansions are built around a courtyard, have thick walls, tall columns and arches, lofty ceilings and  polished wooden floors. The inner courtyard is usually covered by wide canopy of tall trees, with thick green patch all around and water-bodies with water-plants. These mansions offer accommodation options which are   personalized, are leisurely placed,set in tranquil surroundings with no rush of continuous frenzy of arriving and departing tourists that one gets to bear in a modern hotel. The staff are ever-present yet not breathing down your neck. They leave you to be yourself and be with yourself. The rooms are large, tastefully fitted with colonial furniture and complimenting modern facilities. Its walls adorned with antique art objects, paintings, prints and maps. The public area alcoves and windows have more extensive display of the colonial art and crafts sourced from the local Jew Town antique shops. The rooms are named after the past colonial occupants or renowned characters from the Portuguese, Dutch or even British history in India.   Here are Heritage Hotels and Homestay options at Fort Kochi on top of my list. Enjoy the leisurely break! Le Colonial The Le Colonial, was home to the Portuguese Governor for almost 150 years and then was lorded over by the Dutch for another 140 years. St Francis Xavier is also said to have lived in the house which has also called the "St Francis Bungalow”. Sold to the British in 1795, it was acquired by J Thomas, the legendary tea traders. The mansion has combined colonial history of 500 years, now converted into a boutique hotel under the Neemrana fold, the mansion has not only retained its architectural heritage but also added modern amenities for its discerning guests. The hotel is adorned with many art objects, prints, paintings of Raj and the days before relieving its colonial past. It has 7 tastefully decorated rooms named after Jan Van Spall, Vasco da Gama, Major Petrie and Tipu Sultan among others.   The bungalow has seven bedrooms and suites all individually decorated own secluded terrace, recreating the genuine colonial feel whilst retaining comfort and elegance. Selected among the Worlds Top 130 New Hotels by CondeNaste Traveler. The chefs lovingly create Indian, continental dishes with fresh ingrediants which one can enjoy either in the elegant dining room, the garden or in the intimacy of room or terrace. The occupants get to enjoy its large collection of art objects, paintaings, prints, old maps which adorn the walls, shelves, and every open space.  Entire collection of art here is in harmony with the leisurely and rich heritage of the mansion and truly provides a romantic escapade amidst the settings that goes back to several centuries. Le Colonial Bungalow - Tiled roof, loft ceilings, archways, courtyard, pillars and plenty of greenery all around Dining Hall - polished wooden floor, arches, high ceiling, colonial furnitures and gourmet food Lobby - Rich and varied collection of paintings connecting with mansions colonial past and their history Passage to the colonial past - Walls adorned with prints and paintings Jan Van Spall suite named after the last Dutch Governor who lived in the house. Room with a private verandah and two king size beds under a raftered roof.  Viceroy Suite, the largest and the noblest room at Le Colonial, with a long verandah attached. Art deco furniture in teak and satin wood gives the room a feel of classic charm Major Petrie Room, a high, four-poster bed with teak steps to mount, a striped white rafter roof and windows pierced in thick walls. A gallery of etchings and gravures on the walls and the ambience of art – as in an elegant home. Facilities: Formal dining in arcaded Dining Hall, rejuvenating intimate massage facility, swimming pool. Tariff: Ranges from Rs 7,000 to Rs. 24,000 depending on the room chosen and season of visit

 Le Colonial 1-315, Church Road, Vasco de Gama Square, Fort Kochi. Phone: 484-2217181/2217182. Mobile: 8086677472 

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The Tower House

Tower House, a Neemrana property has an enviable colonial past. It is a 17th century twin house with scallop wall and looks like a ship. The sheer joy of stay at Tower House Bungalow (Formerly Peirce Leslie Bungalow) at stone throw distance from the famed chinese fishing nests is a journey into the history of spice trade of this port city and an introduction to the good life lived by the foreign traders in the last 4 centuries. The generous arched doors welcomes one to step in to the another world where time stretches, pauses to watch the sun set and move over so lightly towards dawn. The welcome area displays multi-religious art and antiques in honor of its Hindu, Jewish, Muslim and Christian ancestry. The thick wall, teak stairs leading to the first polished floor covered entirely in fine teak that have with-stood the vagaries of nature and the general wear and tear looks steady enough to last few more centuries. The large salon on the first floor with high vaulted ceiling is designed to provide generous circulation of air which helps in keeping the place cool even in summer months. Long verandah opens in the inner courtyard and overlooks the green lawn and an inviting cozy swimming pool is ideal for enjoying a favourite book over a cup of tea. The rooms are in various sizes and named after its colonial masters - Noronha, Wayermah, Mateu, Souza, Mascarenhas , Mossel, Pacheco, Cunes and Menezes. Most of the rooms have large four poster beds, and windows that have views of the trees or the sea depending on where they are located.

The furniture here is an eclectic mix - rosewood, teak and ebony period furniture blends with cane and rattan pieces and informal sofas and settee. Light pours in through the windows, skylights and the vastness of the indoor spaces makes for an unforgettable experience. Tower House takes you back in time, moods and memories woven together create a fabric that is strong but sits ever so lightly.

The Tower House, view of inner courtyard and the swimming pool

The Dinning Hall

The Hall on first floor

View of The Tower House from piazza

The Mateu Suite: the grandest suite with a separate dressing room, a locker and a minibar

Noronha is a grand suite with two queen size beds, a separate dressing room, a locker and a large bathroom.

Facilities: Formal dining in arcaded Dining Hall, Library, Swimming pool, Craft Shop,  

Tariff: Ranges from Rs 2,500 to Rs. 10,000 depending on the room chosen and season of visit

Tower House 1/320, Tower Road, Fort Kochi Phone: 0484-2216960-62, Mobile: 9895693716

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Brunton Boatyard

As the website of the hotel states it is an attempt bring colonial Cochin alive for the contemporary traveler. A welcoming vaulted and airy lobby framed by arches and overhung punkhas promises of a mansionful of colonial history. Waves from the Cochin harbour crashes on the walls of property built in 1895, once a boartyard owned by Geo, Brunton & Sons, the mansion has been painstakingly restructured it for use as a boutique hotel. In recreating the space for modern use the mansion has seen extensive use of terracotta, lime, wood and tiles - all local produce, yet retaining the Dutch influences - lofty ceilings, hanging fans, and studded with artefacts and curios associated with marine navigation. An inviting swimming pool by the edge of the harbour completes the vista. Hotel's private jetty is round the pool, from wher one can take off on cruise either dwn the harbour onto Vypen Island or towards the Kumbalanghi back waters.

                                             Brunton Boatyard - View from the sea

        

Room with a View

All rooms and suites here offer generous sea view, so does the ensuite bathrooms.How about enjoying cool drink lying in bath tub and watch the seagulls flutter about or the container ship cruisng through the harbour! Brunton Boatyard deservingly boast to be the most beautifully located heritage hotel in Fort Kochi.
This property not only offers luxurious stay at a greta location but is also marked for the gourmet local cuisine it serves from 'The History Restaurant' and  'The Terrace Grill'.

The History Restaurant offers unique gastronomic fare in form of Kerala, Arab, Jewish and Syrian Christian cuisine which were deeply infuenced by the Portuguese and Dutch and which generously make use of the abundantly locally produced exotic spices. The food on offer is truly a melting pot of different cultures that influnced the way of life in its colonial past.  Closely guarded secret recepies were sourced from the old families of Cochin and recreated lovingly by the chefs. Generous use of fresh cinnamon, pepper, red chilli, coriander, vanilla, ginger and excellent blend of spices is hall mark of the food served here. One must not leave without savouring Mulligatawny soup, Pork vindaloo, Awal arubyan bil Kabaneh (Arab pulao), malabar dessert - Pazham Nirachatu (stuffed steamed banana) and star anise chocolate truffle.  

The Terrace Grill on the other hand open for Dinner only and offers Seafood dining experience. You can have freshly caught fish and crustucans grilled or cooked the way you fancy and savor it while you watch the town life unfold down nera the jetty. Facilities: Formal dining in The History Restaurant and The Terrace Grill, The Armoury Bar, swimming pool, Spa 

Tariff: Ranges from Rs 7,500 to Rs. 12,000 depending on the season of visit

Brunton BoatyardCalvetty Road, Fort Kochi Phone: 0484 2215461/ 2215465

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Koder House

Koder House is a three-storeyed heritage boutique hotel opposite the beach at Fort Kochi facing the thick canopied piazza and very close to the Chinese fishing nets. The heritage boutique hotel was once residence of the Jewish Koder family. The three storied hotel was actually built by the Koders to accommodate families of their three sons. It is believed to have been structured and gabled in Europe and shipped to Cochin. Its windows are said to be made of imported Belgium glass. The red brick facade with wooden arch on the top looks inviting. As stated in its publicity, Koder House encapsulates the concept of a heritage boutique hotel combining originality and style with personal service.  Polished teak floors, lofty ceilings and stairways and spacious suites and rooms reflect the tradition of Dutch architecture.

Tastefully designed rooms and suites blend the traditional with the modern to provide comfort and luxury to the traveler. Each suite has its own distinctive style and decor and comprises a bedroom, desk, television, large dressing/lounging area and luxurious bathroom with a spa bath and separate shower cubicle. Four of the six suites also have

a balcony overlooking the Chinese fishing nets.

Koder House not only offers luxurious stay options but also serves excellent cuisine from teh restaurant Menorah, which continues to offer authentic Jewish cuisine. Traditional Kerala, Indian and continental cuisine is also served here with some traditional recipies traced down from local families.  Their signature dishes Malabar Fish Curry, Meen Pollichathu,  Alleppey Prawn curry and Mixe Grill Seafood Platter are worth the fame.

For relaxation and rejuvenation one can enjoy treatment at Serena Spa or do few laps in the swimming pool. At the sundown, one can enjoy cocktails in Bear and Wine Lounge and for the book minded there is a well stocked Library for browsing.
Tariff:

Koder House Tower Road, Fort Kochi Phone : 0484 2218485 / 2217988. Email: koderhouse@gmail.com

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Old Harbour Hotel

A charming heritage boutique hotel opposite the piazza is a 300 years old Dutch-Portuguese mansion , which functioned as residence for employees of English tea-broking firm and later a hotel for traders. This old mansion was restored into a hotel of style and leisure, keeping the original façade and architectural elements intact, to bring alive the old hotel of previous sea- farers. While restoring the building preservation of the building and its natural surroundings were kept intact. This boutique hotel offers a comfortable blend of luxury, style, heritage and tradition to discerning traveler.

Exterior view of the Old Harbour Hotel

The hotel has thirteen spacious lofty celing rooms,  each named after the old street names of Cochin. Each rooms opens into the luxuriant courtyard or faces the piazza.  The furnitures are a mix if traditional and modern with all modcons in each room. The garden cottages with a verandah, private lily pool and open sky shower is a high point here.

Inner Courtyard view

We also have a large garden with a swimming pool as well as a stage for cultural performances, all of it set amidst plenty of natural green. For the comfort of our guests, there is an Ayurvedic spa and a large open-air terrace. We are aware that our guests are special and to ensure this, care has been paid to organic soaps and lotions in the bathrooms, comfortable robes and slippers as well as plenty of bottled water.

Luxurious and spacious room

Arcaded Dining Hall serves organically grown vegetables, high quality meats, freshest cath of fish and crusticans. Seafood is served in barbeque menu at dinner time in the courtyard garden. 

Facilities: Swimming pool, spa, fine dining.
Tariff: Ranges between  9500 to 16000- depending on the room type and season

Old Harbour Hotel 1/328, Tower Road, Fort Kochi Phone : 0484-2218006, Mobile: 09847029000

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Tea Bungalow

Tea Bungalow celebrates its one century of its existence in 2012. Built by United Carpets, the famous British firm engaged in soir and spice trade to function as its office-cum-workshop. It changed hands in 1956 when Brooke Bond, the tea company bought it and christened it Brooke Bond Bungalow. Restored to perfection with blend of the colonial heritage and modern facilities, Tea Bungalow offers ten spacious en-suite rooms ecah named after a port involved in spice and tea trade. The rooms are named Cochin, Zanzibar, Galle, Mombasa, Muscat, Malacca, Mauritius, Cambay, Goa and Calicut and offers a tranquil place to step away for a while. Spotlessly clean, the bedrooms are elegantly designed to exude, warmth and comfort and an ineffable sense of quiet luxury.

Ornate carved wooden doors, simple elegance of each room, exquisite paintings on the
wall are charming additions. The wide verandahs with broad comfortable armchairs
and teapoys are great spots to idle away time.

Café du Mahé is a multi-cuisine restaurant which serves Indian, Kerala and
Continental cuisine. The elegant dining area with exquisite tableware and s
oothing lighting opens onto the garden. Some tables are also set up al fresco near the
pool.

The Garden is the perfect foil for Tea Bungalow, enhancing its calm serenity.
One can lounge on the garden chairs under a lawn umbrella or in the dappled shade
of the jackfruit, breadfruit and cinnamon trees, and enjoy the exotic shapes of the
bonsai plants. At night the cleverly lit garden is transformed into the stuff of dreams.
Facilities: Multicuisine restaurant, Poolside Barbeque Lounge, Coffee Lounge,
Swimming Pool, Library

Tariff: Ranging from Rs.6,000 to Rs 10,000 depending on the room and season

Tea Bungalow      1/1901, Kunumpuram, Fort Kochi. Phone: 484 3019200. Mobile: 9388719678 9388719679. email:  info@teabungalow.in

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Malabar House
Old Dutch mansion built in 1775 located opposite the Parade ground near Dutch cemetry has been home to the spice and tea traders over the past centuries. This is more than a highly designed heritage hotel. It is an art hotel, home of a carefully curated collection, highlighting Kerala’s composite culture as a passage between East and West. It offers flawless comfort and an excellent service.

Acquired and restored by the French husband and wife duo Joerg and Txuku, the transformation of the large white Indo-European bungalow froma decrepit mansion to being the first boutique hotel of Fort Kochi has been a remarkable journey. Best of the heritage legacy was conserved and strengthened through extensive use of traditional architectural expertise this resulted in a perfect combination of traditional appearance and modern comfort. The hotel is also home to a fine Indian art collection, which ranges from antiques to contemporary art pieces. Each of the spacious suits and rooms are elegant and luxurious.

For fine dining experience, Malabar Junction, the signature restaurant of the hotel scores way above multistarred restaurants. Txuku personally curates the menu which is an eclectic amlagam of the traditional tastes of Kerala with Mediterranean cuisine. The "Fisherman's Dream", a snapper fish marinated in secret sauce is to die for. Bread is freshly baked in the in-house bakery under the supervision of the owners. Caramelized pineappale served with green and black pepper is the kind of dessert that I would cherish always. Divine, its wine lounge is the crossroads of tradition of South India and innovation.


Divine, its wine lounge is the crossroads of tradition of South India and innovation.



Enjoy classical music or a dance performance at the patio stage, rejuvenate your soul and body at the ayurvedic spa, step into the history and culture of Fort Cochin

Facilities:Fine dining, swimming pool, spa, wine lounge,
Tariff:

Malabar House 1/268 - 1/269 Parade Road, Near - St Francis Church, Fort Kochi Phone: 0484 2216666

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The Old Lighthouse Bristow 

The Old Lighthouse Bristow is a heritage mansion converted into a boutique hotel. Mansion with a beach front surrounded by abundant greenery while the sea waves from the Arabian ocean crash on its shore. Once residence of Sir Robert Bristow, the architect of modern Cochin port, today it offers a luxurious stay experience to traveler.

Room options are both garden facing as well as seafacing suites which offers stunning view of the Arabian sea from its ensuite balcony. There are two garden villas for that exclusive rendezvous by the sea. All rooms are spacious. Stay here provides ultimate privacy and style.  

There is a large swimming pool with a Jacuzzi and outdoor beach side seating area, while breakfast and dinner is served facing the sea.

Th hotel lobby and halls are decorated with sculptures and paintings representing the colonial heritage thus connecting the visitor with its past.
Alfresco dining can be experienced at the outdoor restaurants Bistro and Lighthouse Lounge. The Vinocean bar is well stocked for a spirited experince!  Spa Deha, the spa offers rejuvenating Ayurvedic massages, perfect foil for the jaded body.  

Facilities: Alfresco dining, Bar Lounge, swimming pool, Spa, beachside seating area,

Tariff:

Old Lighthouse Bristo Beach Road, Next to INS Dronacharya, Fort Kochi. Phone: 0484 3050101 / 3050102

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 The Old Courtyard Hotel

The Old Courtyard Hotel, previously mansion of the Koder family of Fort Kochi. It was known as Lily Koder’s house. Jacob and Rose Kuruvinakunnel found this gem of a mansion on Pricess Street a perfect setting to start a heritage hotel.

Colonial style rooms, wher  period furnitures compliment the modern facilities, roomd adorned with the art and craft objects that were sourced from the antique heaven of Kochi. The cobbled central courtyad with a large old mango tree lends a charming touch to the atmospheric hotel. Arched arcade around the courtyard allows for plenty of light and air play.

Evenings under the tree enjoying that refreshing drink with enchanting music played by local artists is a great way to unwind after a walk through the amazing streets of Kochi.

The eight rooms located on the first floor overlooking the central courtyard and accessed through the stairs offer value for money stay options in a colonial setting. All rooms are airconditioned and have ensuite bathrooms. The King Suite is the room that one should choose if you want real luxury. The most spacious room, with lounging area, furnished with an antique 4-poster bed and antique furnitures. Exedues A typical colonial charm.

Four poster period bed

View of a Superior Room.
The restaurant in the courtyard offers refreshing dining experince. Fresh seafood catch is cooked to your liking in the fresh ingredients and spices that grow abundantly in Kerala. The cuisine on offer ranges from Kerala, Continental, Mediterranean and Asian flavours. The staff are lovely, friendly but not overbearing which make a a nice change.
Facilities: Cafe and Restaurant, Live Music in the evenings
Tariff; Ranging from Rs.2,000 to Rs.6,000 depending on the room and season visited.
The Old Courtyard Hotel Princess Street, Fort Kochi. Phone: 0484 2216302 / 2215035