Cafe Teapot serves wide varieties of tea. Great for no-fuss breakfast and meal
Round the corner of Princess Street one of the earliest streets to be laid in Fort Kochi and Peter Celli Street with its European style residences still retains its old world charm. The best view of this quaint street can be had from Loafer's Corner, the traditional meeting place and hangout of the jovial locals. One can meet and engage in some wholehearted conversation with locals here.
Not too far from the Loafer's Corner near the Cafe Coffee Day are few small tailoring shops who would stitch up cool and casual kurtas, tops and pyjamas in Kerala cotton in few hours. Ideal casual clothes for the summer of Kerala.
Further down few yards at the intersection of Rose Street is Vasco Homestay. An old mansion which is believed to be the house where Vasco de Gama stayed while he was in Kochi. Vasco House has the typical European glass paned windows and balcony-cum- verandas characteristic of the 16th century. On the right corner is the famous St Francis Church, built by Portuguese in 1503. Believed to be the oldest European church in India. Vasco de Gama was originally buried here in 1524 before his remains were shipped to Lisbon.
Adjacent to the St Francis Church flanked by Napier Road and Residale Street and spanning upto Parade Road is the Parade Ground spread over 4 acres, the largest open area of Fort Kochi. This was used as a Parade ground by the colonial occupants of this island. Their defense establishments operated from the mansions that surround the ground. One comes across groups of young men enjoying game of football or cricket here. Some of the finest boutique hotels are located around the Parade Ground.
Further up towards Pattalam Road is Bishop House, bbuilt in 1506 as the residence of the Portuguese Governor, the Bishop’s House stands on a little hillock near Parade Ground. The facade of the house is characterized by large Gothic arches and has a circular garden path winding up to the main entrance. The building was acquired by Dome Jos Gomes Ferreira, the 27th Bishop of the Diocese of Cochin.
Further up is Oceanos, a seafood and Mediterranean cuisine speciality restaurant where the fresh catch of the day is cooked exactly the way you want it to be. One can take to the small lane going past this cafe and move towards the Beach Road through the lanes well covered by thick canopy of tall trees lining the lane. We come across private residences which continues to attract attention of citizens of metropolitan cities, where box like monstrous tall structures are mushrooming in the name of modern architecture. When would the designers look inward and recreate replicas of such fine built heritage?
Soon we are on the Beach Road and could hear the sea waves crashing against the boulders on the shore, the area around this part of the beach is under the Indian Navy hence can not access the beach from here and one has to walk upward towards the east to get an access to the beach. Here on the left is The Old Lighthouse Bristow Hotel is situated right on the beach. Surrounded by abundant greenery on three sides and facing the Arabian sea on the other. This property has served as residence of Sir Robert Bristow, the architect of modern Kochi port in the 1920's.
Further up standing majestically atop the cliff by the sea shore is Thakur House, private residence of the famous tea-trading Rai Bahadur Thakur family, thus the name Thakur House. This was built over the site where once stood the Gelderland Bastion and was originally built by the Dutch East India Company as a club and community centre for its officers. Perhaps this explains the often talked about private tunnel which leads to far off place. The polished wood floors, high ceiling ed spacious rooms and enormous bay-windows are true representations of the Dutch architecture. For film buffs, it is interesting to note that the Ismail Merchant film 'Çotton Mary' straring Great Sacchi, James Wilby and Madhur Jaffrey was shot at Thakur House.
As we walk further ahead, we reach a cluster of beautiful quarters, private residences and shops around Lilly Street and Napier Street. It is a very quite part of the town with slate roofed single or double storied mansions dot both sides of the street. Literally taking one back to the much leisurely days in the colonial era. One could imagine, horses pulling the buggy carrying the Dutch, English or the Portuguese officers to one of those mansions. Fab India has opened their store on Napier Street, while Dal Roti on Lilly Street serves almost authentic North India cuisines from its high ceiling dining hall enclosed in a seemingly tiny house. The Malabar House hotel, a part of the Trinity group is round the corner from here. It is known for its upper crust luxurious ambiance, perhaps a bit too much of antiques and art and craft. However, they run an excellent multi-cuisine restaurant and equally good spa here.
Few yards away towards the back yard of the Malabar House is Dutch Cemetery where rests the mortal remains of the valiant Dutch officers are army men who braved the vagaries of nature in this far-off land in the dark continent.
The Durbar Hall is built on the Parade Ground Road across the ground. It served as a Durbar Hall (court house) of the Maharajah of Kochi. Built over 150 years ago, now converted into a heritage art gallery and being readied to be the focal point of The Kochi-Muziris Biennale, an international exhibition of contemporary art in Kochi. The exhibition is set to be placed in spaces across Kochi, Muziris and surrounding islands. Indian and international artists are expected to exhibit artworks across a variety of mediums including film, installation, painting, sculpture, new media and performance art. A cafe is also attached to the gallery.
Further down adjacent to St Francis Church is the oldest colonial mansion dating back to 1506. The Le Colonial, was home to the Portuguese Governor for almost 150 years and then was lorded over by the Dutch for another 140 years. St Francis Xavier is also said to have lived in the house which has also called the "St Francis Bungalow”. Sold to the British in 1795, it was acquired by J Thomas, the legendary tea traders. The mansion has combined colonial history of 500 years, now converted into a boutique hotel under the Neemrana fold, the mansion has not only retained its architectural heritage but also added modern amenities for its discerning guests. The hotel is adorned with many art objects, prints, paintings of Raj and the days before relieving its colonial past. It has 7 tastefully decorated rooms named after Jan Van Spall, Vasco da Gama, Major Petrie and Tipu Sultan among others.
Walking along and on to Napier Street, we are now heading towards Vasco de Gama square, an ideal place to watch fishermen catch fish with the large Chinese fishing nets along the beach. It is a narrow promenade with thick canopied old trees standing tall. The square has many stalls selling fresh water fish, tender coconuts and snacks. One could also sit on one of the stone benches on the promenade and watch sea waves crashing at the shore and containers ships moving in and out of Cochin harbour. One could also see two large steam boilers of cranes used in Cochin Dock some 50 years ago, now let to rust. These boilers look fantastic against the backdrop of the setting sun and an old tree which sheds its leaf in summers.
The Chinese fishing nets known as 'Cheena vala' is said to have been introduced to Kochi by the Chinese explorer Zheng He. Though some attribute this to Kublai Khan. These are stationery nets installed by the seashore on a platform. These are cantilever structure with nets suspended over the sea. Large stones are suspended from ropes at the other end as counter weight. To operate the net a dozen odd fishermen drop the net into the sea water while one person walks along the main beam to let the net descend into the water. Once the net is under water, fishes get entangled in the net. After a certain time, the 5-6 fishermen pull out the net by pulling the ropes from the water in vigorous motion with loud chorus. Once out of the net, the fish is immediately auctioned off to the nearby fish stall owner. These nets are an object of interest for visitors and one usually ends up pulling the rope along with the fishermen (they cajole you to do so!) and once the rope is pulled and you had your share of fishing thrill, and strained arm muscles, the fisherman would ask for 'bakshish'. You help them catch the fish and also pay for it, strange!
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Karimeen, the much liked fish of the Malyalis |
This is where I had the most amazing fresh fish bar-be-Que meal. It is amazing to know how reasonably priced are fresh fish here. I took 1 kg of salmons and 750 odd grams of large prawns all for just about 250 odd rupees from one of the stall. Handed the lot over to one of the Ýou Buy We Cook' stalls across the promenade opposite Delta School. They cooked the fish according to my liking and served hot with coriander chutney and onion salad all for 100 rupees. So here we are eating up almost 2 kgs of fresh fish nicely cooked and bar-be-Que all for less than 500 rupees.
We round-off our Fort Kochi walk with visit to the Santa Cruz Basilica, a 16th century Portuguese church standing tall on Rampart Road. The Gothic structure with tall spires has tall windows decorated with stained glass arrangements depicting scenes from the Bible. The quaint confessional boxes are worth a watch.
Fort Kochi offers wide stay options, one can pick from top end heritage boutique hotels, the modern hotels operated by famous hotel groups in India as well as home stay options. For me heritage boutique hotels or even a home stay options here are more personalized. Kochi also offers wide range of food inspired by Kerala cuisine as well as the the English and French. Fort Kochi's stay options and food deserves separate posts. That and much more in the next post.
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